Memories From Recent Trip to Israel
This April, my daughter Taleene, two of my traveling buddies and I decided to take a week long culinary tour of Israel, led by a beautiful and talented women named- Orly Ziv. I expected a week of wonderful cooking demonstrations, delicious tastings of food by leading chefs, and tours exploring the country’s ancient cities. However, little did I know that I was really embarking on a spiritual and culinary trip of a lifetime.
After months of planning and a long 18 hour flight from LAX, with high anticipation we finally arrived at Tel Aviv in midafternoon. We found our driver, Ellie and Orly, our cooking teacher and tour director, waiting for us at the airport. As we drove along Tel Aviv’s roads to our hotel, I stared out the window, taking in all the amazing sites. I could not wait to be able to explore the streets and eateries, taste the delicious cuisine, and visit my birthplace- Jaffa.
We stayed at the Mizpe Hayamim Spa Hotel which sits between the luxurious artist colony of Rosh Pina and the historic city of Zefat. Let me just say, I loved this hotel! The hotel Spa is renowned for its organic dairy farm and production of organic fruit and vegetables; and its panoramic terraces overlooking Galilee which was spectacular. Every morning we would wake up to the aroma of fresh coffee, baked pastries and amazing breakfasts made for royalty. Our traditional Israeli breakfast consisted of tomato wedges, fresh cucumber, feta cheese, lebnah, plums, halvah, sour cherry juice, freshly squeezed orange juice, carrot juice, fresh honeycomb, and freshly baked bread.
We first visited the coast and the neighboring ancient port of Jaffa, where I was born. The fresh, salty breeze blowing in from the open sea electrified the gorgeous spring afternoon. The city was alive in the in the beautiful weather. Mothers wheeled their babies down the green center islands between the roads and large crowds gathered in the market.
As planned, our next stop was the legendary – Sea of Galilee where we strolled through its hill-filled towns, acres of farmland, spectacular beaches, and some of the best views in the whole of Israel. Galilee had something for everyone from its beautiful beaches and parks to its seafront promenade. We passed thru the Baha’i Gardens, an exquisite 19 –tiered network of landscaped terraces that cascade down through of Haifa. In the middle is the Golden Dome where worshippers practice the Bahia faith with its perfectly landscaped Baha’i Gardens and Baha’i holy site. We visited the historic walled city of Akko which was packed with ancient monuments, small museums and art galleries. We also visited the market of Akko with its barrels of nuts, bags of spices, and baskets of the freshest fruits, vegetables, and fish.
We visited an amazing cheese maker in Zefat who has worked with his whole family for generations making cheese and halva from scratch. The cheeses were wonderfully aged, aromatic, but not too pungent, and the halva, was sweet and delectable. We were showed to a cave where all the cheese was stored, and were showed how to make yogurt and halva from scratch.
On one excursion, we took a drive to the Dead Sea. It is said that the sea is the lowest point on the planet, more than 1,388 feet below sea level. Floating in the water and enjoying the unique medicinal benefits of the salt, water, and mud that you rub on your body was a unique experience. There were people from all over the world who would just diving into the sea!
We examined Israel’s cosmopolitan city Tel Aviv to discover how ancient and modern culinary traditions live side by side. We visited the old and the new of Tel Aviv’s food and coffee culture. We toured through the city’s Carmel Market, full of exotic spices and spectacular sweets, and of course, hummus. Oh, how I love hummus!
We ventured to the mesmerizing city of Jerusalem. Despite rapidly changing demographics, Jerusalem has retained a diverse character, especially in the walled Old City with Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters. I was dazzled the diversity. Arabs in traditional modern attire, Christian, Western, and Orientals in their infinite variety of secular garb and monastic vestments. Jews in casual orthodox dress and host of tourists all combined to make a strikingly colorful kaleidoscope of patterns. Synagogues, churches, mosques and dwellings in various styles made up the city’s unique architectural mosaic. Sunlight shined in on the white and pink stone used for construction and gave even quite mundane buildings an aura of distinction.
The famous Jerusalem market was filled with seductive, spicy aromas, typical of the old city’s deeply herbal style. The warm spices and grains demystify the fine cuisine on the purity and integrity of the ingredients. We explored the unique tastes and aromas, during our Jerusalem market tour, weaved our way through the treasures tucked away in the market. We tasted specialty olive oils, cheeses, and seasonal fruits and vegetables.
My visit to Israel was not just for the wonderful food and ancient cities. No, Jerusalem holds a special place in my heart- it is where my grandmother lived in the Armenian quarters. I knew in an instant that I was home. It was remarkable being able to see where my grandmother lived her life.
As we got closer to our departure, I could not stop thinking about how my trip to Israel was more than I could ever have expected. The food was delicious; people welcoming and so real and friendly, the cities old and ancient, and spirituality reigned. If you are ever thinking about going to this wonderful city, I urge you completely. My life and cooking have been changed by this trip and I am truly grateful to have had such an experience.
























